Good Afternoon TLR mates and friends.
I wanted to write up a post on some items we have been testing on the 8X vehicles that we have had a good overall result with and that has lead us to a different overall setup. These items have required some additional changes to the primary setup of our vehicles and thus the reason for the entire setup here. The purpose of this setup is to give a new baseline for a vehicle that is easier to drive faster, has a better balance front to rear, and even more stable in the rough stuff. This setup has now been ran at Thunder alley both wet and dry, Revelation, Adelanto, HRH, and Palm Desert all with success without many if any changes.
The biggest changes are trying to get the suspension more free under load, and providing support for the vehicle and sharp bump handling.
If you want to test this out, I suggest putting the entire setup on your car and then trying it and adjusting to you from that point. As with any setup, this should always be the case. Every detail makes a difference.
We free up the suspension under load by the use of new rod ends and arm inserts for the inner hinge pins. Currently the new rod ends are not available so you will want to ensure you rod ends are super free by either squeezing them over and over or running a set with some time on them. For the arm inserts, the part number is LOSA1701 and you will need 2 sets of these per car.
For the inserts, you will drill out the inner hinge pin hole. You want to drill it at slow speed and use the correct size bit the first time, do not step up as that makes it too easy to off center the hole. You also want to drill from the backside of the arms. You will then need to dremel the surface of the arm down for the insert lip to fit between the suspension mounts. Then place the inserts in both the front and back of the arm, put a small amount of grease in them and slide the hinge pin in place.
For the front universals, you will want to slightly dremel them to allow more angle through the entire stroke of the suspension. This will provide a little more steering but also smooth out the steering under load.
In the rear of the car, you will need to do a couple things. Use aluminum hubs in the center height position, make a new hole in the shock tower and thus dremel out clearance for it, and clearance the arms for the extra droop we are running.
For drilling the shock tower, you are making a hole that is equal distance apart as the two existing rows to the inside of the inside row and at the height of the number 3 position.
Now, you need to clearance the gear box for this mounting position. Take your time to do this. You want to dremel from the back side of the gearbox leaving the front rib in place for strength. You also want to put the pivot ball in place with red loctite once you have everything clearanced properly. I take the tower off and hold it in place, put the rod end in line with the hole and mark that. Then I dremel in some and place the tower backl in place with the two lower screws and try putting the screw into the pivot and then once I can get the screw in and it pivots properly, I reassemble it all. If you want to remove the screw after the wing mount is on, you either have to also dremel the wing mount or remove the mount.
Now due to the droop we are running and the height of the hub and the forward position, the corner of the universal crashes into the arm in flex conditions. You will want to either run it and then see the notch and clearnce accordingly or just clearance some and then check after running.
One note is that we are measuring droop on droop blocks that are 36mm in height now. We have found shock length to be a very poor measurement due to arm flex, arm fatigue, and a number of other reasons. Measuring droop to the flat area next to the threads on the wheel hex has proven much much more consistent.
For the pistons, we are taking our TLR tapered 8 x 1.3 and gluing 2 holes closed. There are a few methods out there for closing holes from soldering to gluing. One thing to note when gluing holes closed on pistons, you have to mushroom the glue on both sides and you have to use kicker on the glue. It makes the glue harden different and also expand ever so slighty which makes it stay in the hole.
Here is an image of the setup sheet. I will eventually have a link on the setup sheets section on the TLR page but have to get that working first and I know I have had many requests to try this setup out and wanted to get it out there. I still have some ideas on the shocks but will update from here now.
I wanted to write up a post on some items we have been testing on the 8X vehicles that we have had a good overall result with and that has lead us to a different overall setup. These items have required some additional changes to the primary setup of our vehicles and thus the reason for the entire setup here. The purpose of this setup is to give a new baseline for a vehicle that is easier to drive faster, has a better balance front to rear, and even more stable in the rough stuff. This setup has now been ran at Thunder alley both wet and dry, Revelation, Adelanto, HRH, and Palm Desert all with success without many if any changes.
The biggest changes are trying to get the suspension more free under load, and providing support for the vehicle and sharp bump handling.
If you want to test this out, I suggest putting the entire setup on your car and then trying it and adjusting to you from that point. As with any setup, this should always be the case. Every detail makes a difference.
We free up the suspension under load by the use of new rod ends and arm inserts for the inner hinge pins. Currently the new rod ends are not available so you will want to ensure you rod ends are super free by either squeezing them over and over or running a set with some time on them. For the arm inserts, the part number is LOSA1701 and you will need 2 sets of these per car.
For the inserts, you will drill out the inner hinge pin hole. You want to drill it at slow speed and use the correct size bit the first time, do not step up as that makes it too easy to off center the hole. You also want to drill from the backside of the arms. You will then need to dremel the surface of the arm down for the insert lip to fit between the suspension mounts. Then place the inserts in both the front and back of the arm, put a small amount of grease in them and slide the hinge pin in place.
For the front universals, you will want to slightly dremel them to allow more angle through the entire stroke of the suspension. This will provide a little more steering but also smooth out the steering under load.
For drilling the shock tower, you are making a hole that is equal distance apart as the two existing rows to the inside of the inside row and at the height of the number 3 position.
Now due to the droop we are running and the height of the hub and the forward position, the corner of the universal crashes into the arm in flex conditions. You will want to either run it and then see the notch and clearnce accordingly or just clearance some and then check after running.
One note is that we are measuring droop on droop blocks that are 36mm in height now. We have found shock length to be a very poor measurement due to arm flex, arm fatigue, and a number of other reasons. Measuring droop to the flat area next to the threads on the wheel hex has proven much much more consistent.
For the pistons, we are taking our TLR tapered 8 x 1.3 and gluing 2 holes closed. There are a few methods out there for closing holes from soldering to gluing. One thing to note when gluing holes closed on pistons, you have to mushroom the glue on both sides and you have to use kicker on the glue. It makes the glue harden different and also expand ever so slighty which makes it stay in the hole.
Here is an image of the setup sheet. I will eventually have a link on the setup sheets section on the TLR page but have to get that working first and I know I have had many requests to try this setup out and wanted to get it out there. I still have some ideas on the shocks but will update from here now.
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