Earlier this year I began working on a setup for the 22-4 2.0, since switching to TLR I was struggling a bit to find consistency with the handling of the rear of the car. After a bit of brainstorming I thought I would give the 2wd rear arms a try for 2 reasons.
1. The 2wd rear arms outer shock mounting location is equal to the 4wd inner most hole allowing more useful adjustment.
2. The 2wd rear arms are a gull wing shape, and I believe gull wing rear arms help the car generate a bit of grip, and consistency.
Frank had the arms put on the car in solid works so we could match the droop / axle location of the stock 4wd geometry. The team stayed for an extra day of testing following the INS at Hobby Action, both Frank and Dakotah had an opportunity to run the full setup, and we all ran the setup at the 2018 ROAR Nats and this will be the base setup moving forward and we recommend everyone to try it.
Parts you’ll need for the modification / team setup moving forward.
22 4.0 rear arm - TLR234079 or Stiffezel TLR334047
22 shock limiters – TLR5096
AE LONG shock ends – ASC91820
AE spring perch – ASC91310
The only part that needs modified are the rear arms, 1 hole will need to be drilled in each arm to mount the 4wd sway bar.
When installing the arms it is very important to get the arm / hub spacing correct or wheelbase will be effected. Arms- the arms should be spaced all the way to the rear of the car, I used 3.5mm of 22 shock limiters to accomplish this Hubs- hubs should be spaced with 1mm in front of the hub and 3mm rear of the hub. [note: if you want to use the 22-4 outer hinge pin on the 2wd arm you can all you have to do is place 1 1mm spacer on between the nut and the arm]
The rear shock needs to be longer to account for the shape of the arm, we are also running extra droop with this setup front and rear.
Front Shock 0 internal limiters – 25mm stroke – use the ae long rod ends Rear Shock 0 internal limiters – 3mm of external limiters – 33mm stroke – use the long ae rod ends We run 2-outside on the front shock, and 3-middle on the rear shock. On the upper shock mount you will need to use a 3x35 steel screw to mount the shock with a 9mm worth of spacing to correct the shock angle.
The last thing to pay attention too is the rear dog bone engagement into the outdrive. We run the 68mm bone with 1mm axle spacers with the rear ball diff.
Zeke Ballinger
1. The 2wd rear arms outer shock mounting location is equal to the 4wd inner most hole allowing more useful adjustment.
2. The 2wd rear arms are a gull wing shape, and I believe gull wing rear arms help the car generate a bit of grip, and consistency.
Frank had the arms put on the car in solid works so we could match the droop / axle location of the stock 4wd geometry. The team stayed for an extra day of testing following the INS at Hobby Action, both Frank and Dakotah had an opportunity to run the full setup, and we all ran the setup at the 2018 ROAR Nats and this will be the base setup moving forward and we recommend everyone to try it.
Parts you’ll need for the modification / team setup moving forward.
22 4.0 rear arm - TLR234079 or Stiffezel TLR334047
22 shock limiters – TLR5096
AE LONG shock ends – ASC91820
AE spring perch – ASC91310
The only part that needs modified are the rear arms, 1 hole will need to be drilled in each arm to mount the 4wd sway bar.
The rear shock needs to be longer to account for the shape of the arm, we are also running extra droop with this setup front and rear.
Front Shock 0 internal limiters – 25mm stroke – use the ae long rod ends Rear Shock 0 internal limiters – 3mm of external limiters – 33mm stroke – use the long ae rod ends We run 2-outside on the front shock, and 3-middle on the rear shock. On the upper shock mount you will need to use a 3x35 steel screw to mount the shock with a 9mm worth of spacing to correct the shock angle.
The last thing to pay attention too is the rear dog bone engagement into the outdrive. We run the 68mm bone with 1mm axle spacers with the rear ball diff.
Zeke Ballinger
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